Today I would like to show you another of my patterns. It’s pattern for a looser ladies’ T-shirt with raglan sleeves and a closed round neck opening. This pattern has been available for some time now, but it was hand-drawn and only in few sizes. Now I finally got to convert it to the standard format so I can bring it to you in multiple sizes. It’s now available in sizes 32 – 60. In today’s article I will tell you how to sew this T-shirt.
You can get the pattern for women’s T-shirt with raglan sleeves here:
Pattern works best with knits (flexible materials), for example:
- Cotton knits
- Ponte Roma fabric
I’ve made a great comfortable T-shirt for the winter from this fabric. It’s a bit loose, so I can wear a tank top underneath it and it doesn’t get too tight.
You may already know my pattern for a women’s T-shirt with raglan sleeves & boat neck JACKIE. So, what is the difference between this pattern and pattern from today’s article?
Comparison table – STRAP UP / COMFY / JACKIE
|Neckline||Round w/ ribbon||Round – closed||Boat neck|
|Material – Type||-Knits (cotton, merino wool, bamboo, viscose) with elastane|
-French Terry knit
|-Knits (elastane optional)|
-French Terry knit
-Ponte Roma fabric
-Tracksuit fabric (thinner, uncombed) with elastane
-Thin sweater fabric
-Knits (cotton, merino wool, bamboo, viscose) with elastane
|Material – Weight||Up to 220 g / m2||200 – 320 g / m2||Up to 200 – 240 g / m2|
|Can I wear inner layer under it?||Thinner tank top – yes||Yes – even thick warm innerwear||No|
This pattern is suitable even for beginners. You can sew the T-shirt on overlock or regular sewing machine. If you are going to use regular sewing machine, read the following recommendations:
How to sew T-shirt with raglan sleeves
Prepare 1x front piece (folded fabric cut), 1x back piece (also folded fabric cut), and 2x sleeve piece.
Take the front piece and put it face side up.
Lay the sleeve piece over it (face side to face side) and pin the raglan seam. Marks will help you to align the pieces correctly.
Pin the other sleeve to the front piece.
Sew both front raglan seams.
Lay the back piece over the right sleeve (face side to face side) and pin the back raglan seam.
Sew the raglan seam. Leave the other raglan seam (back left) open, so you can hem the neck opening easily.
Measure the circumference of the neck opening (measure along the actual sewing line – about 1 cm away from the cutting edge – not along the cutting edge itself).
Multiply the measured length by 0.9 and measure the resulting value on the fabric strip. This strip must be from flexible fabric and it should be 3 – 3,5 cm wide (I like thinner strips, so I made mine 3 cm wide).
Fold the strip in half (lengthwise) and sew the hem of the neck opening. Iron it afterwards.
Now is the time to sew the last of the raglan seams. If you are sewing on an overlock, then sew part of the seam near the neck opening on regular sewing machine first. This will prevent the layers from slipping.
Pull free ends of thread chain near the neck opening under the loops when sewing on the overlock.
Press the seam allowances towards the back piece and lock part of it (near the neck opening) it in place with the short straight seam. This will flatten the connection.
I recommend cleaning and folding the sleeve hems before swing the sleeve and side seams.
Sew through the folded sleeve hems from the face side, use some type of flexible seam (I’ve used 3-step zigzag).
Now pin and sew side seams and sleeve seams on both sides of the T-shirt.
Pull free ends of thread chain under the loops when sewing with the overlock. Clean the bottom hem of the T-shirt too.
Use short straight seams to flatten and lock the seam allowances in the sleeve hems.
Finally, fold the seam tab of the bottom hem of the T-shirt to the reverse side and sew through it with a flexible seam (from the face side).
Your T-shirt is ready!
You can get this pattern here:
Have a nice day, Peťa!