If you want to know how to sew this type of shirt, continue in reading…
Because I often use this type of sleeves in my patterns, I decided to make a tutorial on how to sew a t-shirt (or dress) with raglan sleeves and optionally neckline facing.
You can find it in a long t-shirt pattern.
Sometimes you ask me what are these raglan sleeves? Raglan sleeves are sleeves that also represent shoulders in the garment. Raglan sleeves do not fit on the shoulder line (as with the classic head or kimono sleeves, but they come straight out of the neck seamline in front and back part.) We can, of course, encounter different variations, different shape of the raglan seam, or, for example, we can have a raglan sleeve that comes out of the neckline in the front part, but in the back part, in place of the blades, it turns towards the center of the back part and at the same time forms a yoke in the back part. In any case, the basic variant of the raglan sleeve comes out of the front and back from the neck seamline and the raglan seam goes into the armpits.
This means that the sleeve is sewn in a different way than the classic one, where the sleeve is attached to the shoulder seam line.
You also often ask what is the facing? The facing is a part of the garment that cleanses some edge. The facing can be for example in a zipper coat – on the wrong side of the front part, there is a strip of fabric that copies the shape of the front part. The facing can also clean the armhole edge, which can be seen, for example, in evening dresses – the armhole is not lined with a stripe (bias tape or stripe of knitwear), nor is it turn in the wrong side and stitched, but on the reverse there is a strip of fabric that replicates its shape again. Just like we can meet the necklace facing of the neckline that we’re going to show today…
Why, actually, work with the facing? If we clean up the edge of some clothing that should be pure and elegant, in most cases the facing is recommended. There is no visible stitching on the right side. I recommend learning how to work with facing and to not be afraid of them, because then even a common shirt can suddenly get a completely different touch. Facing, you also often find in evening clothes and just because this cleaning method is very elegant.
So how does it work when sewing the raglan sleeve and the facing in the neckline?
We start by preparing all the pieces of a t-shirt or dress … on the sleeves with a pin or chalk to make a mark which side of the sleeve belongs to the front part.
On the front, we place a sleeve so that we can sew the raglan seam. Right sides together.
Sew a raglan sean and press the seam allowances to the sleeve.
We do the same with the second sleeve, which we also sew on the front. We also sew the seam tab towards the sleeve.
Place a back part on the sleeve and pin the raglan seam.
sew the raglan seam and press the seam allowances to the sleeve again.
Sew the last raglan seam and press the seam allowances to the sleeve again.
Now we prepare the facing. We cut the facing according to the paper pattern on the fold of fabric. Sew the whole facing in the shorter side (center of the back part) together. neaten the outer edge of facing, pull the chain under the loops.
We fold the facing in half so we can find the center of the front part where we make a cut, or we draw a chalk mark here or mark a place with a pin.
Do the same tuck in center of the front part.
How to do the tuck? Fold the front part in half…
… and cut out about 2 mm from the corner.
And the tuck is done. The advantage is that this tuck will be there forever. Chalk mark can be rubbed out, a pin can backslide…
Place a facing into the neckline, right sides together. match the tucks in the front part.
Do the tuck in the back part of the garment just the same. Match this point with the back center seam on facing.
Now pin the facing around the whole neckline.
We sew the facing into the neckline and pull the loose chain under the loops.
Turn the facing into the wrong side of the garment and press the neck seamline.
I recommend pressing the seam that about 1 mm of the main fabric is seen in the wrong side of the garment.
Secure the facing in the place with a few little hand stitches in the raglan seams.
Turn the garment into the wrong side and sew the sleeve seam and side seam in one step.
Do the same with another side of the garment.
Neaten the sleeve edges and the lower edge. Pull the chains under the loops.
Turn the hem about 3 cm into the wrong side of the garment and secure it with elastic machine stitching.
And the t-shirt (or dress) is done!
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