Children’s zipper sweatshirt (FOREST) sewing instructions

Péťa  ·  6.9.2019  ·  14 minutes of reading

For today, I have prepared instructions on how to sew children's zipper sweatshirt FOREST.

The pattern for children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

The pattern

This simple sweatshirt with a stand-up collar is very versatile and can be used year-round. I know that a similar universal pattern has been missing from my offer for a long time, so I am very happy to finally be able to present it to you today. This pattern for children’s sweatshirt is available in sizes 80–164 and you can get it here:


Recommended material

Choose some medium or thick knit (stretchy material). You can use elastic laid-in knits, fleece, double knits, "warmkeepers", etc. I recommend using hem knit for cuffs and bottom hem. You will also need one-sided fusible interfacing and a separating bottom zipper. You can also add a hanging loop to the sweatshirt, you can use a piece of ribbon for that.

You can use leftovers of fabric with properties similar to the primary fabric for contrasting collar and pockets. You will receive additional info (the required amount of material, recommended zipper length, etc.) along with the pattern files.

Suggestion

You can use an overlock machine or a regular sewing machine to sew this sweatshirt.
If you decide to use a regular sewing machine, I recommend reading this article before you start:

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Sewing instructions

Pattern layout

Prepare:

  • 2x front piece
  • 1x back piece (cut on the fold)
  • 2x facing - front piece
  • 1x facing - back piece (cut on the fold)
  • 2x sleeve
  • 4x pocket piece
    • Four primary fabric pieces or two primary fabric pieces + two secondary fabric pieces)
  • 1x collar (cut on the fold)
    • (1x primary fabric piece or primary fabric half + secondary fabric half)
  • Hems
    • (there are pre-cut, ready-made hems in the photo below, but I realized later that they are not suitable for this sweatshirt – prepare the hems yourself)
  • Separating bottom zipper
    • (recommended lengths are listed in the pattern files).
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Pocket pieces

Transfer the shape, size, and position of the pocket openings to the pocket pieces according to the paper pattern.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Reinforce the pocket openings with one-sided fusible interfacing so that a little part of it (about 3 mm or 1/8") reaches over the future edge of the opening and the rest (ca. 1,2 cm or 1/2") is inside the pocket pouch. Mark the shape of the pocket opening again, so you can see it.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Collar

Skip this step if you have a collar in one piece (according to the paper pattern). Just reinforce the whole collar piece with one-sided fusible interfacing.

If you want to sew a contrasting inner collar, you need to add a 1 cm (0.4") wide seam allowance to the longer side of the collar piece.

If you don't have enough fabric - my case - and you need to create the inner collar from two fabric pieces, you need to add seam allowance to the shorter side too – that is the area where the fold would normally be.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Connect the two inner collar pieces (sew the shorter sides).

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Press the seam allowances open.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Reinforce both collar pieces (inner and outer) with one-sided fusible interfacing.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Topstitch both sides of the seam - sew about 5 mm (0.2") from the connecting seam.

Of course, you don't have to do this if you have an inner collar made of one piece of fabric…

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Place the inner part of the collar on top of the outer part (face side to face side) and pin (or baste) one set of the longer sides.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Sew the pieces together.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Trim the seam allowance of the inner collar – cut it in half.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Press the seam allowances towards the inner collar.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Topstitch the seam - sew about 3 mm (1/8") from the original seam. Topstitching should stabilize the seam and attach the seam allowances to the wrong side of the inner collar. This helps to make the collar rigid and to stop the inner layer from peeking out.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Fold the collar in half (lengthwise, face side out), baste (temporarily stitch) the two pieces near the seam, and iron the collar.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Check the collar from the inside and outside and align/trim uneven cutting edges so that both layers have the same shape and size. Compare shorter sides of the collar too – they need to be of the same length. Any unsolved problems would be very hard to deal with later - when sewing the zipper.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Reinforce other pieces

Next, you need to reinforce the front edges of both front pieces with about 2 cm (3/4") wide strips of fusible interfacing. Reinforce all facing pieces too.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Pockets

Put your pocket pieces on top of the front pieces (face side to face side). The exact position is marked on the paper pattern – align bottom edges of the pocket pieces with bottom edges of the front pieces.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Sew along the line that indicates pocket opening.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Cut out the inner part of the pocket opening - cut about 1 cm (0.4") from the seam.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Cut the seam allowances as shown below. It is very important to use sharp scissors and cut the seam allowances as close to the seam as possible without cutting into the seam itself.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Flip the pocket piece over the edge of the front piece and baste the pocket opening. Slide the front piece about 1 mm (0.04") towards the opening and over the edge of the pocket piece when stitching – thanks to this, the edge of the pocket pouch will remain hidden.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Topstitch the pocket opening. Sew about 3 mm (1/8") from the original seam. Work on the other pocket in the same way.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Place both front pieces face side up and cover the pockets with the two remaining pocket pieces.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Pin both pocket pouches. (Only pocket pouches - two layers of fabric - not the front piece.)

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Sew the pocket pouches. I used my overlock machine but it is possible to use a regular sewing machine too.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

I recommend temporarily stitching the pocket pouch to the cutting edges of the front piece. This will make the front piece easier to handle.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Prepare the other pocket in the same way.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Shoulder seams

The pockets are prepared so we can move on. Place the back piece on your table (face side up).

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Lay both front pieces over the back piece (face side to face side) and pin both shoulder seams.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Sew the shoulder seams.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Press the seam allowances of the shoulder seams towards the back piece.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Topstitch both shoulder seams.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Topstitch about 3 mm (1/8") from the shoulder seams to attach the seam allowances to the reverse side of the back piece.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Sleeves

Pin the sleeve piece to the open armscye - pin the top of the sleeve cap to the shoulder seam...

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

...and then pin the rest of the sleeve cap.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Sew the sleeve to the sweatshirt and then work on the other sleeve in the same way.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Sleeve seams & side seams

Turn the sweatshirt inside out. Pin the sleeve seams and the side seams.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Sew previously pinned seams.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Collar

The easy part is over and now we can start sewing the collar.

Pin the collar to the neck opening – the face side of the outer part of the collar belongs to the face side of the neck opening.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Sew the collar to the neck opening.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Check the face side of the collar - the distance from the neck opening seam to the seam on the collar must be the same on both sides of the collar, otherwise, you won’t be able to sew the zipper evenly. This mistake would be very noticeable on the finished piece.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Turn the sweatshirt inside out and trim one of the seam allowances in the neck opening - cut it in half.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Bottom hem

Before sewing the zipper, we must sew the bottom hem.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Pin the hem knit to the bottom edge of the sweatshirt (face side to face side). Start where the center of the hem knit meets the center of the back piece...

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

...then pin both corners of the hem to the corners of the front pieces.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

The place where the hem is to meet the side seam is marked on the pattern piece.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Pin the rest of the hem to the sweatshirt.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Sew the hem to the sweatshirt. When sewing, gently stretch the hem to sew it evenly.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Facing

Let’s prepare the facing - pin both "shoulder seams" (face side to the face side).

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Sew the shoulder seams. Press seam allowances towards the front pieces and topstitch the seams - sew about 3 mm (1/8") from the original seams.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

You can also prepare the hanging loop. You can use a piece of ribbon. Pin your hanging loop to the back part of the facing. Both ends of the ribbon need to be the same distance from the middle of the piece.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Attach the hanging loop with a few small stitches. Sew close to the cutting edge.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Stitch the top part of the hanging loop to the facing (so that you don't accidentally sew through it when sewing the facing to the sweatshirt).

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Clean the outer edge of the facing.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Zipper

Pin the first half of the zipper to one of the front pieces (face side to face side).

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Fold the top part of the zipper tape back on itself.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

The bottom end of the zipper should reach up to the middle of the bottom hem (don't forget to include the upper seam allowance when finding the middle).

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

You can now baste (and sew) the zipper to the sweatshirt. I recommend using a zipper foot.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Press the seam allowances of the neck opening towards the collar.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Press the seam allowances of the bottom hem towards the front piece.

(I got this wrong...)

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Close the zipper and mark the place where it meets the neck opening seam.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Also, mark the place where it meets the seam of the bottom hem. Both halves of the zipper must be sewn in exactly the same position. If one half is "lower" than the other, it will become evident after you close the zipper (one half will be wavy). It may seem insignificant, but this kind of mistake is very noticeable. Pay close attention when sewing the zipper and do not hesitate to rip out the seam and start again if you notice any mistakes.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Baste the second half of the zipper to the other front piece. Use your marks to align the zipper correctly.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Sew the second half of the zipper to the sweatshirt, close it and check for mistakes.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Trim the inner layer of the collar (cut about a 0.5 cm / 0.2 "wide strip of fabric from its upper edge).

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Facing

We have prepared the facing (and hanger tab) in advance so now we just need to pin it to the sweatshirt. Pin the facing to the inner layer of the collar (face side to face side).

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Sew the facing to the collar.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Align the edges of the facing with the edges of the front pieces.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Pin the bottom edge of the facing to the bottom edge of the hem.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Sew the two pieces.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Now fold the collar in half and over the zipper as shown below. Align the neck opening seam with the seam that connects the inner collar to the facing. Fold all seam allowances towards the collar.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Pin the facing to the front piece (and zipper tape). Fold the bottom hem in half.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Press the seam allowances of the hem towards the facing (not towards the hem).

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Sew the facing to the front piece along with the inner collar and part of the bottom hem.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

If you now flip the facing over the edge and to the inside of the sweatshirt, it should look like this:

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Finish the bottom hem

Fold the hem in half and pin its bottom edge to the existing seam.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Try to pin as much of the hem as possible. You don't have to get right up to the zipper, but the longer the seam you manage to do, the better.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Sew the hem to the existing seam. I recommend using a narrower stitch and turning off cutting when using an overlock machine.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Pull free ends of the thread chain under the loops.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Finish the collar

We can now finish the collar.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Press the seam allowances of the neck opening towards the collar and stitch them in this position.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Let the basting thread hang from the face side of the sweatshirt.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Press the seam allowances of the facing towards the collar and baste them in this position.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Now put the two collars together. You shortened the inner collar (before sewing facing), which is why its seam is now about 0.3 - 0.5 cm (1/8" - 0.2") higher than connecting seam of the outer collar. Baste both collars - stitch right below the edge of the inner collar...

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

On the other side, the stitching should appear about 0.3 - 0.5 cm (1/8" - 0.2") above the connecting seam.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Now sew right in the seam that connects the inner collar to the facing.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

The inner collar is now topstitched. Now topstitch the outer collar - sew on the opposite side of the connecting seam (this new seam and previous topstitching line should be the same distance from the connecting seam). This seam will also attach the facing.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Topstitch the front pieces along the zipper.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Sleeve hems

Finally, we can finish the sleeves. Fold the hems in half (face side in). Pin the edges and mark the fold line on the opposite side with pins or notches (cuts).

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Fold ("roll") the hems in half (face side out).

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Put the first hem to the inside of the sleeve (sleeve is inside out).

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Pin the hem to the sleeve.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Sew the hem to the sleeve. When sewing, gently stretch the hem to sew it evenly.

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

Your sweatshirt is ready!

How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST
How to sew children’s zipper sweatshirt FOREST

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