Children’s zipper sweatshirt (FOREST) sewing instructions

Today I’ve prepared for you promised instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt.

Pattern for children’s zipper sweatshirt

This sweatshirt with stand-up collar of a simple pattern could be used year-round, that is why this pattern is so universal. I’m aware that it was missing in my patterns offer for a long time and that is why I’m so happy to introduce it to my e-shop offer now. Children’s sweatshirt pattern is available in sizes 80 to 164. And now let’s see the step-by-step sewing instructions for children’s sweatshirt.

Recommended material:

Most appropriate materials for sweatshirt sewing are knits of medium or high thickness – elastic materials (elastic tracksuit fabric, fleece, double-faced knit, warmkeeper etc.). I recommend hem knit (patent) for waist and sleeve hems. You will also need thinner one-sided fusible facing and divisible zipper (you will receive recommendation about the amount of material needed and other details along with purchased pattern). You can buy fabrics online.

You will also need:

  • Thinner one-sided fusible facing
  • Divisible zipper
  • Ribbon for hanger tab (optional).

You can use leftovers of fabric with properties similar to the top fabric for contrasting collar and pockets. You will receive other details (amount of the material needed, zipper length, etc.) along with the pattern.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Cuts preparation

Pieces from paper pattern:

  • 2x front piece
  • 1x back piece (folded fabric cut)
  • 2x sub-liner of the front piece
  • 1x back piece sub-liner – folded fabric cut
  • 2x sleeve
  • 4x pocket piece (4x from top fabric or 2x from top fabric and 2x from contrasting fabric)
  • 1x collar – folded fabric cut (1x whole from top fabric or 1x half from top fabric and 1x half from contrasting fabric)
  • Hems (there are pre-cut, ready-made hems on the picture, but I realized later that they are not suitable for this sweatshirt – use unprepared hem knit)
  • Divisible zipper (see pattern info for appropriate length).
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Pocket pieces

Transfer shape, size and pocket openings placement to the pocket pieces according to the paper pattern.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Interface the pocket openings with the fusible facing so that little part of it (ca. 3 mm) is inside the opening and rest (ca. 1,2 cm) is outside the opening – in the pocket pouch. Mark the pocket opening placement on top of the fusible facing.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Collar

(Skip this step if you have collar in one piece according to the paper pattern. Just interface whole collar with one-sided fusible facing.)

If you want to have contrasted inner collar, you need to transfer pattern piece with extra 1 cm for longer side seam. If you don’t have enough fabric – same as me in the picture – and your inner collar is from two pieces, you need to leave extra 1 cm for the shorter side seam too – that is the area where the fabric fold would be.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Sew inner collar parts together on the shorter side.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Press the seam allowances open.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Interface both collar pieces (inner and outer) with one-sided fusible facing.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Topstitch both sides of open-pressed seam allowances from the face side about 5 mm away from the connecting seam (if your inner collar is made from two pieces of fabric).

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Place inner part of the collar on the outer part (face side to face side). Pin or stitch one set of the longer sides together.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Sew them together.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Trim the inner collar seam allowance – cut it in half.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Press the seam allowances towards the inner collar.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Use stabilizing seam (top stitching) on the face side of the inner collar about 3 mm away from the original connecting seam. This seam should also attach seam allowances to the back of the inner collar. This is done to make the collar more rigid and to stop the inner side from peeking out.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Fold the collar lengthwise in half back side to back side. Stitch along the connecting seam (in which the collar is folded now). Press / iron the collar.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Check the collar from the inside and outside, align any uneven cutting edges so that both inner and outer sides are of the same shape and size. Compare shorter sides of the collar too – they need to be of the same length. Any unsolved problems would be very hard to deal with later, when sewing the zipper.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Interfacing – reinforcement

Next you need to interface center edges of front pieces with ca. 2 cm wide strips of fusible facing. Interface both sub-liner parts of the front piece and sub-liner of the back piece.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

How to sew the pockets

Lay prepared pocket pieces on the front pieces. Exact position is marked on the paper pattern – align bottom edges of the pocket pieces with bottom edges of the front pieces. Pieces should be placed face side to face side.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Sew pocket pieces to the front pieces exactly along the marked line of pocket openings.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Cut off surplus part and leave about 1 cm wide seam allowances.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Cut the seam allowances from their corners to the corners of pocket openings. It is very important to use sharp scissors and cut the allowances as close to the seam as possible without cutting into the seam itself.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Fold pocket pieces to the back side of the front pieces and stitch the pocket opening. Let the back side of the front piece slide about 1 mm towards the opening and over the other piece when stitching – this prevents the pocket piece from peeking out to the face side of the sweatshirt.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Topstitch along the pocket opening. Topstitch about 3 mm away from original pocket opening seam.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Lay front pieces back side up. Place two remaining pocket pieces (contrasting pocket pieces) over the sewn-in pocket pieces.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Pin contrasting pocket pieces. (Advice for beginners: pin the pocket pouch – two layers of pocket pieces – not the front piece.)

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Sew the pocket pouches. I’ve used overlock but it is possible to use regular sewing machine too.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

I recommend stitching pocket pouch to the front piece in the area of bottom cutting edge and side seam. This will make front piece easier to handle – pocket won’t be moving around, and you will be able to work with precision.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Prepare the other pocket in the same way.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Shoulder seams – shoulders

Front pieces are ready so we can move on. Lay the back piece front side up.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Lay both front pieces over the back piece (face side to face side). Pin the shoulder seams.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Sew the shoulder seams. You can use overlock or regular sewing machine.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Press the seam allowances of the shoulder seams towards the back piece.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Topstitch shoulder seams from the front side.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Topstitch in the back piece area to sew through the pressed seam allowances. Topstitching should be done about 3 mm away from shoulder seam.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Sleeves – connecting seam

Pin the sleeve piece to the open armhole. Always start from where the top part of the sleeve meets the shoulder seam.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Pin the rest of the sleeve to the open armhole.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Sew the sleeve into the armhole.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Sleeve and side seams

Sweatshirt is inside out. Pin the sleeve seams and the side seams.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Sew previously pinned seams.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Collar

The easy part is over and now we can start sewing the collar.

Pin the collar to the neck opening – outer part of the collar to the front side of the neck opening.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Sew the collar to the neck opening.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Check the front side of the collar. Sides of the collar protruding from the front side of the sweatshirt must be symmetrical. Sides must be of the same size, otherwise you won’t be able to sew the zipper evenly. This inaccuracy would be very noticeable.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Turn the sweatshirt inside out and trim one of the seam allowances in the neck opening – cut the seam allowance of the collar in half.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Hem knit of the bottom hem

We need to sew hem knit of the bottom hem before sewing the zipper.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Pin the hem knit to the bottom edge of the sweatshirt face side to face side. Start where the center of the hem knit meets the center of the back piece.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Pin the edge of the hem knit to the edge of the front piece.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Paper pattern marks the area where hem knit meets the side seam.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Pin the hem knit along the bottom edge of the sweatshirt.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Sew the hem knit. Pull on the hem knit lightly when sewing so it fits nicely to the bottom edge of the sweatshirt.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Sub-liner

Let’s also prepare our sub-liner. Pin shoulder seams area of the sub-liner of the back piece to the sub-liners of the front pieces (face side to the face side).

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Sew shoulder seams of the sub-liner. Press seam allowances towards the front pieces and topstitch about 3 mm away from the original seams.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Now you can prepare hanger tab too. You can use ribbon or piece of the thinner fabric tape. Pin the hanger tab to the sub-liner of the back piece. Both ends of the hanger tab need to be same distance away from the center line of the sub-liner of the back piece.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Sew the hanger tab with a few small stitches. Sew close to the cutting edge – in seam allowance.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Stitch the top part of the hanger tab to the sub-liner loosely, so you won’t accidentally sew through it later.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Clean the free edge of the entire sub-liner.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

How to sew the zipper

Pin the zipper to one of the front pieces, face side to face side.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Fold the loose end of the zipper near to the collar.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Bottom end of the zipper needs to reach to the center of the hem knit (take into account both seam allowances of the longer sides of the hem knit).

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

I recommend stitching the zipper. Then sew the zipper using the zipper foot.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

At the collar, the seam allowances are pointing towards the collar.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

At the bottom end of the front piece, seam allowances are pointing towards the front piece (not towards the hem knit) – I got it wrong in the picture! 🙂

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Zip up the zipper and mark the place where it crosses the connecting seam of the collar.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Mark the crossing of the connecting seam of the bottom hem knit too. It’s important to sew the zipper correctly on both sides, otherwise one of the sides may become crooked after sewing and zipping up the zipper. It may seem insignificant, but this error is blatant when the sweatshirt is worn. Pay close attention when sewing the zipper and do not hesitate to rip out the seam and start again if you see any mistakes.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Stitch the other side of the zipper to the second front piece. Marks on the zipper should be directly above their respective seams.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Sew, zip up the zipper and check for mistakes.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Shorten inner (contrasting) collar by about 0,5 cm. It should be half a centimeter lower than the outer collar.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Sub-liner

When the zipper is sewn on both sides, we continue with the sub-liner. We have prepared sub-liner with hanger tab in advance so now we just need to pin it. Pin the neck opening of the sub-liner to the inner collar (face side to face side).

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Sew the sub-liner to the collar.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Align front parts of the sub-liner with front pieces of the sweatshirt.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Pin the bottom edge of the sub-liner to the edge of the hem knit.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Sew together.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Now fold the collar in half (inner collar is placed on the zipper). Sub-liner of the front piece starts where on the other side (across the zipper) the front piece of the sweatshirt starts. All seam allowances are pointed towards the collar.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Pin the sub-liner to the front piece through the zipper. Hem knit is folded in half.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

It is important to point seam allowances of the hem knit towards the sub-liner (not towards the hem knit).

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Sew the sub-liner together with the inner collar and bottom part of the hem knit.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

If you now fold the sub-liner to the inner side of the sweatshirt, it should look like this:

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Finishing the bottom hem

Fold the hem knit in half and pin the loose side to the existing hem seam.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Try to pin the hem to the seam as far as possible under the front piece sub-liner. It is not important to get right up to the zipper, but the hem knit needs to be sewn as far as possible under the front piece sub-liner.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Sew the hem knit edge to the existing seam. I recommend reducing the width of the seam and switching off the side cutter (when using overlock).

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Pull free ends of thread chains under the loops.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Finishing the collar

Now we can finish the collar too.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Stitch seam allowances of the inner and outer collar in the neck opening towards the outer collar.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Stitch seam allowances of the inner and outer collar in the neck opening towards the outer collar.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Stitch seam allowances of the sub-liner pointed towards the inner collar too.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Now fold both collars over each other. Inner collar was lowered by 0,5 cm (before sewing the sub-liner), that is why connecting seam of the inner collar is now about 0,3 – 0,5 cm higher than connecting seam of the outer collar. Stitch both collars together. When stitching right below the inner collar…

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Stitching will be in the outer collar area, about 0,3 – 0,5 cm above the connecting seam.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Now sew right in the seam along the inner collar.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Inner collar is now topstitched. Sew through the front and then back pieces on the opposite side of the collar connecting seam (this new seam and the collar topstitching should be the same distance away from the collar connecting seam). This will attach sub-liner too.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Topstitch the front pieces along the zipper.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Sleeve hems

Finally, we will finish the sleeves. Fold the hem knits in half (face side in). Pin the edges of the hem knits and mark the fold line on the opposite side with pins or cuts.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Fold the hems in half lengthwise (face side out).

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Put the hem in the sleeve (sleeve is inside out).

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Pin the hem.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Sew the hem in. Pull on the hem lightly when sewing so it fits to the sleeve evenly.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

Your sweatshirt is ready.

Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt

How do you like this sweatshirt? Please let me know in the comments if you found pattern and today’s instructions on how to make a zipper sweatshirt useful and tell me what you think about today’s article. 🙂

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