Today I’ve prepared for you promised instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt.
This sweatshirt with stand-up collar of a simple pattern could be used year-round, that is why this pattern is so universal. I’m aware that it was missing in my patterns offer for a long time and that is why I’m so happy to introduce it to my e-shop offer now. Children’s sweatshirt pattern is available in sizes 80 to 164 and you can get it here:
Most appropriate materials for sweatshirt sewing are knits of medium or high thickness – elastic materials (elastic tracksuit fabric, fleece, double-faced knit, warmkeeper etc.). I recommend hem knit (patent) for waist and sleeve hems. You will also need thinner one-sided fusible facing and divisible zipper (you will receive recommendation about the amount of material needed and other details along with purchased pattern). You can buy fabrics online.
Check out this article for more info about sewing with knits on regular sewing machine:
You will also need:
- Thinner one-sided fusible facing
- Divisible zipper
- Ribbon for hanger tab (optional).
You can use leftovers of fabric with properties similar to the top fabric for contrasting collar and pockets. You will receive other details (amount of the material needed, zipper length, etc.) along with the pattern.
Sewing instructions for children’s zipper sweatshirt
Pieces from paper pattern:
- 2x front piece
- 1x back piece (folded fabric cut)
- 2x sub-liner of the front piece
- 1x back piece sub-liner – folded fabric cut
- 2x sleeve
- 4x pocket piece (4x from top fabric or 2x from top fabric and 2x from contrasting fabric)
- 1x collar – folded fabric cut (1x whole from top fabric or 1x half from top fabric and 1x half from contrasting fabric)
- Hems (there are pre-cut, ready-made hems on the picture, but I realized later that they are not suitable for this sweatshirt – use unprepared hem knit)
- Divisible zipper (see pattern info for appropriate length).
Transfer shape, size and pocket openings placement to the pocket pieces according to the paper pattern.
Interface the pocket openings with the fusible facing so that little part of it (ca. 3 mm) is inside the opening and rest (ca. 1,2 cm) is outside the opening – in the pocket pouch. Mark the pocket opening placement on top of the fusible facing.
(Skip this step if you have collar in one piece according to the paper pattern. Just interface whole collar with one-sided fusible facing.)
If you want to have contrasted inner collar, you need to transfer pattern piece with extra 1 cm for longer side seam. If you don’t have enough fabric – same as me in the picture – and your inner collar is from two pieces, you need to leave extra 1 cm for the shorter side seam too – that is the area where the fabric fold would be.
Sew inner collar parts together on the shorter side.
Press the seam allowances open.
Interface both collar pieces (inner and outer) with one-sided fusible facing.
Topstitch both sides of open-pressed seam allowances from the face side about 5 mm away from the connecting seam (if your inner collar is made from two pieces of fabric).
Place inner part of the collar on the outer part (face side to face side). Pin or stitch one set of the longer sides together.
Sew them together.
Trim the inner collar seam allowance – cut it in half.
Press the seam allowances towards the inner collar.
Use stabilizing seam (top stitching) on the face side of the inner collar about 3 mm away from the original connecting seam. This seam should also attach seam allowances to the back of the inner collar. This is done to make the collar more rigid and to stop the inner side from peeking out.
Fold the collar lengthwise in half back side to back side. Stitch along the connecting seam (in which the collar is folded now). Press / iron the collar.
Check the collar from the inside and outside, align any uneven cutting edges so that both inner and outer sides are of the same shape and size. Compare shorter sides of the collar too – they need to be of the same length. Any unsolved problems would be very hard to deal with later, when sewing the zipper.
Interfacing – reinforcement
Next you need to interface center edges of front pieces with ca. 2 cm wide strips of fusible facing. Interface both sub-liner parts of the front piece and sub-liner of the back piece.
How to sew the pockets
Lay prepared pocket pieces on the front pieces. Exact position is marked on the paper pattern – align bottom edges of the pocket pieces with bottom edges of the front pieces. Pieces should be placed face side to face side.
Sew pocket pieces to the front pieces exactly along the marked line of pocket openings.
Cut off surplus part and leave about 1 cm wide seam allowances.
Cut the seam allowances from their corners to the corners of pocket openings. It is very important to use sharp scissors and cut the allowances as close to the seam as possible without cutting into the seam itself.
Fold pocket pieces to the back side of the front pieces and stitch the pocket opening. Let the back side of the front piece slide about 1 mm towards the opening and over the other piece when stitching – this prevents the pocket piece from peeking out to the face side of the sweatshirt.
Topstitch along the pocket opening. Topstitch about 3 mm away from original pocket opening seam.
Lay front pieces back side up. Place two remaining pocket pieces (contrasting pocket pieces) over the sewn-in pocket pieces.
Pin contrasting pocket pieces. (Advice for beginners: pin the pocket pouch – two layers of pocket pieces – not the front piece.)
Sew the pocket pouches. I’ve used overlock but it is possible to use regular sewing machine too.
I recommend stitching pocket pouch to the front piece in the area of bottom cutting edge and side seam. This will make front piece easier to handle – pocket won’t be moving around, and you will be able to work with precision.
Prepare the other pocket in the same way.
Shoulder seams – shoulders
Front pieces are ready so we can move on. Lay the back piece front side up.
Lay both front pieces over the back piece (face side to face side). Pin the shoulder seams.
Sew the shoulder seams. You can use overlock or regular sewing machine.
Press the seam allowances of the shoulder seams towards the back piece.
Topstitch shoulder seams from the front side.
Topstitch in the back piece area to sew through the pressed seam allowances. Topstitching should be done about 3 mm away from shoulder seam.
Sleeves – connecting seam
Pin the sleeve piece to the open armhole. Always start from where the top part of the sleeve meets the shoulder seam.
Pin the rest of the sleeve to the open armhole.
Sew the sleeve into the armhole.
Sleeve and side seams
Sweatshirt is inside out. Pin the sleeve seams and the side seams.
Sew previously pinned seams.
The easy part is over and now we can start sewing the collar.
Pin the collar to the neck opening – outer part of the collar to the front side of the neck opening.
Sew the collar to the neck opening.
Check the front side of the collar. Sides of the collar protruding from the front side of the sweatshirt must be symmetrical. Sides must be of the same size, otherwise you won’t be able to sew the zipper evenly. This inaccuracy would be very noticeable.
Turn the sweatshirt inside out and trim one of the seam allowances in the neck opening – cut the seam allowance of the collar in half.
Hem knit of the bottom hem
We need to sew hem knit of the bottom hem before sewing the zipper.
Pin the hem knit to the bottom edge of the sweatshirt face side to face side. Start where the center of the hem knit meets the center of the back piece.
Pin the edge of the hem knit to the edge of the front piece.
Paper pattern marks the area where hem knit meets the side seam.
Pin the hem knit along the bottom edge of the sweatshirt.
Sew the hem knit. Pull on the hem knit lightly when sewing so it fits nicely to the bottom edge of the sweatshirt.
Let’s also prepare our sub-liner. Pin shoulder seams area of the sub-liner of the back piece to the sub-liners of the front pieces (face side to the face side).
Sew shoulder seams of the sub-liner. Press seam allowances towards the front pieces and topstitch about 3 mm away from the original seams.
Now you can prepare hanger tab too. You can use ribbon or piece of the thinner fabric tape. Pin the hanger tab to the sub-liner of the back piece. Both ends of the hanger tab need to be same distance away from the center line of the sub-liner of the back piece.
Sew the hanger tab with a few small stitches. Sew close to the cutting edge – in seam allowance.
Stitch the top part of the hanger tab to the sub-liner loosely, so you won’t accidentally sew through it later.
Clean the free edge of the entire sub-liner.
How to sew the zipper
Pin the zipper to one of the front pieces, face side to face side.
Fold the loose end of the zipper near to the collar.
Bottom end of the zipper needs to reach to the center of the hem knit (take into account both seam allowances of the longer sides of the hem knit).
I recommend stitching the zipper. Then sew the zipper using the zipper foot.
At the collar, the seam allowances are pointing towards the collar.
At the bottom end of the front piece, seam allowances are pointing towards the front piece (not towards the hem knit) – I got it wrong in the picture! 🙂
Zip up the zipper and mark the place where it crosses the connecting seam of the collar.
Mark the crossing of the connecting seam of the bottom hem knit too. It’s important to sew the zipper correctly on both sides, otherwise one of the sides may become crooked after sewing and zipping up the zipper. It may seem insignificant, but this error is blatant when the sweatshirt is worn. Pay close attention when sewing the zipper and do not hesitate to rip out the seam and start again if you see any mistakes.
Stitch the other side of the zipper to the second front piece. Marks on the zipper should be directly above their respective seams.
Sew, zip up the zipper and check for mistakes.
Shorten inner (contrasting) collar by about 0,5 cm. It should be half a centimeter lower than the outer collar.
When the zipper is sewn on both sides, we continue with the sub-liner. We have prepared sub-liner with hanger tab in advance so now we just need to pin it. Pin the neck opening of the sub-liner to the inner collar (face side to face side).
Sew the sub-liner to the collar.
Align front parts of the sub-liner with front pieces of the sweatshirt.
Pin the bottom edge of the sub-liner to the edge of the hem knit.
Now fold the collar in half (inner collar is placed on the zipper). Sub-liner of the front piece starts where on the other side (across the zipper) the front piece of the sweatshirt starts. All seam allowances are pointed towards the collar.
Pin the sub-liner to the front piece through the zipper. Hem knit is folded in half.
It is important to point seam allowances of the hem knit towards the sub-liner (not towards the hem knit).
Sew the sub-liner together with the inner collar and bottom part of the hem knit.
If you now fold the sub-liner to the inner side of the sweatshirt, it should look like this:
Finishing the bottom hem
Fold the hem knit in half and pin the loose side to the existing hem seam.
Try to pin the hem to the seam as far as possible under the front piece sub-liner. It is not important to get right up to the zipper, but the hem knit needs to be sewn as far as possible under the front piece sub-liner.
Sew the hem knit edge to the existing seam. I recommend reducing the width of the seam and switching off the side cutter (when using overlock).
Pull free ends of thread chains under the loops.
Finishing the collar
Now we can finish the collar too.
Stitch seam allowances of the inner and outer collar in the neck opening towards the outer collar.
Stitch seam allowances of the inner and outer collar in the neck opening towards the outer collar.
Stitch seam allowances of the sub-liner pointed towards the inner collar too.
Now fold both collars over each other. Inner collar was lowered by 0,5 cm (before sewing the sub-liner), that is why connecting seam of the inner collar is now about 0,3 – 0,5 cm higher than connecting seam of the outer collar. Stitch both collars together. When stitching right below the inner collar…
Stitching will be in the outer collar area, about 0,3 – 0,5 cm above the connecting seam.
Now sew right in the seam along the inner collar.
Inner collar is now topstitched. Sew through the front and then back pieces on the opposite side of the collar connecting seam (this new seam and the collar topstitching should be the same distance away from the collar connecting seam). This will attach sub-liner too.
Topstitch the front pieces along the zipper.
Finally, we will finish the sleeves. Fold the hem knits in half (face side in). Pin the edges of the hem knits and mark the fold line on the opposite side with pins or cuts.
Fold the hems in half lengthwise (face side out).
Put the hem in the sleeve (sleeve is inside out).
Pin the hem.
Sew the hem in. Pull on the hem lightly when sewing so it fits to the sleeve evenly.
Your sweatshirt is ready.
How do you like this sweatshirt? Please let me know in the comments if you found pattern and today’s instructions on how to make a zipper sweatshirt useful and tell me what you think about today’s article. 🙂