I’ve already introduced to you my new pattern for women’s shorts and it’s sewing instructions. That was the version with facing and today’s article is about version with hems.
You can get this pattern here:
I recommend using knits of medium thickness (about 200 g / m2). You can also use thinner uncombed tracksuit fabric (with elastane), sports knits, functional knits, etc. You will also need 2,5 – 3 cm wide elastic waistband.
How to sew the shorts
You can find sewing instructions for version with facing here:
- 2x back piece
- 2x front piece
Cut off the seam allowances of the side seam and bottom edge of the front pieces. Also cut off the seam allowances of the bottom edges of the back pieces and partially (up to the mark) seam allowances of the side seam.
Sew the hems of the back pieces (in areas where seam allowances were before). Use 3,5 cm wide lengthwise folded knit strip. Don’t stretch the knit strip when sewing.
Pull free ends of thread chain under the loops at the end of the side seams (hems) when sewing on overlock.
Cut the back pieces a little bit so you can straighten the hems nicely.
Iron the hems and stitch the seam allowances so that they stay folded to the reverse side.
Sew the hems of the front pieces (bottom edge and the side seams). Stitch the seam allowances here too.
Topstitch along the edges of the hems to keep them form twisting.
Use topstitching to attach the ends of the hems of the back pieces this way:
Find the points where the edges of the front and back pieces cross (transfer the marks from the paper pattern).
Lay the front piece over the back piece (face sides up). Use the “crossing mark” to find the right placement.
Pin the side seam.
Cutting edge of the back piece should be aligned with the edge of the hem of the front piece (reverse side view).
Sew the side seam from the face side. Sew exactly along the line where the hem connects with the front piece. I recommend using the thread of the same color as the hems.
Side seam is finished.
Cut off the excess seam allowance.
Sew the other side seam in the same way. Now fold both legs (reverse sides out) so you can pin the instep seams.
Sew the instep seams. Pull free ends of thread chain under the loops when sewing with the overlock.
Topstitch the hem near the instep seam like this. You want to attach the seam allowance to the back piece and flatten the hem.
Turn one leg face side out.
And insert it to the other leg so that they are face side to face side. Pin the front crotch seam and back crotch seam.
Fold the ends of the instep seams in the opposite directions to make this area flatter.
Sew front and back crotch seam in one go.
Turn the shorts face side out and clean the upper cutting edge (waist).
Fold the cleaned edge to the reverse side. Size of the fold depends on the width of your waistband.
Fold 3,5 cm of the edge when using 2,5 cm wide waistband. Fold 4 cm when using 3 cm wide waistband.
Sew through the folded waist from the face side of the shorts. Sew 3 cm away from the line of the fold if your fold is 3,5 cm wide. Sew 3.5 cm away if your fold is 4 cm wide.
Do not sew along the entire circumference of the waist, leave a little gap so you can insert the waistband. I always leave this gap in one of the back parts near the crotch seam. Put the shorts on and determine the correct length of waistband by winding it around yourself. Make it so that it is neither loose nor too tight. Cut the waistband an insert it through the gap.
Sew ends of the waistband flat. Be careful not to twist the waistband when inserting and sewing it You can now close the gap in the waist circumference.
You can get this pattern here:
All articles with sewing instructions can be found here:
Have a nice day, Peťa
PS: Did you know there are also free patterns on my blog? You can find free to download patterns here: